How to Make Pleats Last: Washing, Choosing, and Storing

With the way they sway and sculpt, pleats are one of fashion’s most emotional details, until you wash it the wrong way. Turns out, many brands don’t choose fabrics that can actually hold a pleat after caring for them. We’ve spent decades obsessed with the folds, and we’ve seen it all: the good, the bad, and the beautifully ruined.

The secret to keeping pleats crisp is gentle care. 

What is a pleat?

A pleat is “a fold in a piece of fabric” that creates a pocket of extra material. In other words, pleats literally mean fabric folded, pressed, and sometimes stitched to create a raised fold. For example, a Stylyne pleated skirt is a circle of cloth with many evenly spaced folds. Each fold (or pleat) is what gives the skirt bounce and fullness. 

 

Fabrics for Pleats

Pleats can be made in many materials, but not all fabrics hold pleats equally well. Natural fabrics (like pure cotton or silk) look beautiful but tend to lose their sharp pleats easily. A fashion guide points out that silk or other fine fabrics can “fall out” of pleats if you sit for long or wash them often. The natural fibers relax, and the pleats disappear.

By contrast, synthetic fabrics like polyester or nylon blends are great for pleats. That’s because modern pleating often uses heat-setting: polyester is thermoplastic, so you can press in a pleat with heat and it stays permanently. Of course, other fabrics are still used: silk chiffon or satin can give a floaty pleat (though those often need hand-washing and delicate care). 

Stylyne pleated skirts use high-quality polyester, mostly gabardine, for this reason. The pleats on these garments are durable, you can hand-wash or delicate-machine wash them cold, then reshape the pleats and hang to dry, and the pleats “pop” right back. Notice how even the tiniest pleats at the top are stitched in place? That’s the kind of detail that means long-lasting structure.

Stylist’s Tip: If you’re evaluating a pleated garment in person, do a quick “spring-back” check. Gently squeeze or bunch the fabric; a good pleating will bounce right back to its crisp folds. If it stays wrinkled or limp, the pleats might not hold well, the test gives a clue to the fabric’s memory.

Washing Pleats

When it comes to care, always gentle. For most modern pleated garments (especially synthetics), you can wash them at home, but on a delicate cycle, cold water, with no fabric softener or spin cycle. Why no softener? It adds residue that can clump pleats. Why skip the spin? Spinning can shake pleats out of alignment. Always use a mesh laundry bag if possible, and fasten any zips or buttons so they don’t catch on the folds.

After washing, the golden rule is: reshape while damp and air-dry. Take the skirt out of the machine, and hang the skirt by its waistband on a sturdy hanger (padded or with smooth clips) and let it dry completely. Hanging is crucial, it lets gravity and air do the final work of “setting” the pleats as the fabric dries.

Machine Wash (30°C Gentle)	Put it in a laundry bag if you have one (this protects it from snagging). Use a cool wash (about 30) on the gentlest spin setting.
Hand Wash (Fine/Delicate)	If the fabric is very fine, I recommend that you hand-wash it instead. Fill a basin with cool water and a mild detergent, gently swish the garment, then rinse. Avoid wringing or twisting, just press the water out gently.

 

No Heat, No Tumble: Never put a pleated skirt in the dryer. The heat and tumbling will flatten or distort the pleats permanently. Instead, I always immediately hang it up to air dry, in the same position as you’d wear them, and the pleats should naturally fall into place. Gravity helps the pleats settle correctly as the skirt dries.

Ironing and Steaming Pleats

This is where many people get nervous: “Can I iron my pleated skirt?”

The answer depends on the fabric and type of pleat. Most heat-set pleats in polyester (like ours) are actually advised not to iron at all. Why? You can accidentally flatten the piece by touching the adjacent folds when ironing. Don’t run the risk, the pleats will take shape from hanging.

So, for a polyester pleated skirt, skip the iron. If you feel a little crump in a pleat after washing, gently mist with water and smooth it by hand when hanging; let gravity and drying do the rest. If absolutely necessary (say a natural blend or stitched pleat), use a low heat setting, a pressing cloth, and always follow the direction of the pleat.

But unless your care label says it, I’d avoid the hot iron. Remember, patience is key. After hand-smoothing and hanging a pleated skirt, give it time to cool on the hanger, this “cool-down” period actually helps the pleats set.

Here’s my step-by-step approach:

Prep	Set your iron to a low or medium heat (check the fabric, as synthetics need lower than cotton). Do not use steam! The steam from your iron will flatten the pleats.
Pin Each Pleat	Before ironing, use straight pins to secure each pleat. This prevents you from accidentally ironing a pleat in the wrong direction or pushing it flat.
Set and Cool	After ironing a section, hang the skirt (keeping the pleats held if you can) and let it cool completely. Hang the garment up immediately and remove the paperclips.

 

The key is patience and following the existing pleat lines. With this method, my pleated skirts look as crisp as new. If you’re ever unsure, use a fabric guard cloth between the iron and skirt, or test on a small hidden area first.

Storing Pleated Clothing 

The rule of thumb is hang, don’t fold. I always use a wide wooden skirt hanger with clips on the waistband. This way, each pleat hangs straight and isn’t squashed at the fold. When clipping the skirt, make sure the clips are padded or plastic-tipped so they don’t leave marks on the fabric.

Whenever you iron or steam a skirt, give it space to cool before you tuck it away. I usually leave a freshly pressed skirt on a hanger or drying rack for 5-10 minutes.

Putting it right back in the closet can let steam condense and ruin the shape. Once it’s cool and completely dry, it’s safe to slide into your wardrobe.

Traveling with Pleats

Pleats are a travel-friendly style, especially modern polyester pleats. Because of the heat-setting, many pleated garments are quite wrinkle-resistant. 

When I unpack, I hang my skirt up. You’ll often find that well-made pleated pieces bounce back on their own after travel, thanks to modern fabrics.

Spotting Quality Pleats (In-Store and Online)

Whether shopping in a boutique or clicking “Add to Cart,” here’s how to tell if pleats are well-made:

Even, Crisp Lines	Quality pleats should look uniform from top to bottom, without bulging or flaring. In a well-made skirt, pleats stay flat at the waistband and run straight down. If you see pleats that twist, curl around the hem, or appear “pulled open” at the top, that’s a sign of poor construction
Care Label Details	Look at the fabric content and care instructions. 100% poly or poly blends with delicate wash info is usually a good sign. If a pleated skirt says “dry clean only,” ask why, is it silk, wool, or something else? If it’s supposed to be pleated, see if the seller mentions how the pleats were set. Brands that spell out a “proprietary pleating process” or “heat set pleats” generally put more effort into lasting shape.
Construction	On skirts, pleats are often anchored. Check if the pleats are stitched at the top edge or sealed in the lining, as this keeps each fold from flipping. The absence of stray threads or puckers is a bonus. In-store, you might see a neatly finished waistband or lining panel on the inside, which is a hallmark of quality.
Firm Fabric, Sharp Memory	As I mentioned, touch can tell you a lot. A good pleated fabric will feel crisp to the touch and spring back into its folds after being compressed. This is true even for printed or patterned pleats, for example, the vibrant print on our NY Skyline skirt looks intricate, but it’s still 100% polyester gabardine, so the pleats “lock in” the city lights on every movement

 

Treat pleats as you would any special garment, examine the fabric and finish. Online, zoom in on product photos and read any reviews about fit or durability. If a brand shares tips, like “reshaping pleats after wash”, that’s a sign that they really care about their quality.

In Summary

I’ve found that pleats reward a little extra attention. To recap my pleat-care tips:

• Pick the right fabric. Polyester blends hold pleats best
  
• Wash gently. Cool water, gentle cycle or hand wash, and don't use the dryer!
• Press with care. Use low heat, press along the fold (pin if needed) and always let the skirt cool
• Hang up. Store pleated skirts on a hanger by the waistband so each fold hangs free

In the end, mastering pleats is part science, part ceremony. With these tips in your styling toolkit, your pleated skirts and dresses will stay as magical as the day you fell in love with them.

Wear often, care gently, and they’ll reward you for years.

-Nadya